Discovering Monet at L’Orangerie, Paris: A Charming Collection

Discovering Monet at L’Orangerie, Paris: A Charming Collection

The L’Orangerie Musuem, located in the Tuileries Garden opposite the Louvre in Paris, is often overlooked due to its proximity to such an overwhelming place, but you shouldn’t miss this lovely gathering of Impressionist and post-Impressionist Art. We visited in early November, 2024.

This museum building literally used to house the royal orange groves, so it has an open and airy feel inside, even if it is minimalistic and modern. Full price tickets are 12.50 Euro, but they are free on the first Sunday of each month. If you want to go on the free Sunday, though, you need to get your ticket about 4 weeks in advance, when they open up the date, as spots sell out quickly. One ticket gives you access to Monet’s Waterlilies, as well as the rest of the museum’s permanent collection, and any temporary exhibits they are showing. It’s a good deal, especially when we were there. They had a temporary exhibition curated from the collection of Heinz Berggruen, a seemingly clairvoyant collector and dealer of Picasso, Klee, Matisse, and others. Tickets are timed, and the museum is much less crowded than it’s larger neighbors, both the Louvre and the Musee D’Orsay.

The permanent collection is completely lovely, and revolves around the Jean Walter and Paul Guillaume Collections. Paul Guillaume was a prolific French art dealer and collector in the early days of the 20th century, and the collection is an interesting and fun look back at that time period. Unfortunately, most of the Cezannes and Renoirs were off on loan at a traveling exhibit, however the reworked collection showcased some lesser-known, yet thought provoking pieces from other contemporaries, and followers. I especially loved the works of Marie Laurencin, and Chaim Soutine, two new-to-me artists.

Laurencin, Portrait of Miss Chanel 1923
Soutine, The Young Englishwoman 1934

The real stars of the show here, though, are the massive, panoramic waterlily paintings by Monet. There are two, elliptical-shaped rooms housing eight murals, and they are absolutely stunning to look at, even amongst the tour groups and other admirers. As you enter the rooms, the museum suggests that you remain silent, as the paintings are meant to be observed in a reflective and meditative way. Unfortunately, most folks do not heed the suggestion. If you are serious, though, about viewing and taking in the art, and not just taking a selfie, I would suggest that you bring noise cancelling headphones, in order to view the art as intended. The canvases are truly beautiful, and brought a tear to my eye. Well worth the price of admission.

Observing the collection here at Musee L’Orangerie is a beautiful, low stress way to spend an hour or two. Just outside the museum, you can’t miss a great view of the Obelisk and the Eiffel Tower! Don’t overlook this gem of a museum when visiting Paris!

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