HOT TAKE

My husband and I typically go on a trip to someplace warm in February.  February is the coldest, snowiest month of the year in Chicago, and so it’s a great time to get away.  It also happens to be our anniversary month!  This year, our anniversary trip took us to Guatemala, our fifth time in Central America, where we spent two nights in Antigua and five nights at Lake Atitlan.  We absolutely love visiting Central American countries because of their warmth (including the weather and hospitality), the massive variety of things to do, especially if you are into nature, flora and fauna, interesting culture, and it can be relatively inexpensive, especially when compared to certain Caribbean destinations. Plus, it is so close and easy to get to!

United Airlines offers direct flights from Chicago-O’Hare airport to Guatemala City on Saturdays.  At about 3.5 hours, it’s faster to get to Guatemala than it is to California!  As far as getting to and from your destination with the least amount of travel time, Central America is a no-brainer.  Plus, for those of us Midwesterners, there is no time change as Central America is also on Central time if you go before daylight savings time kicks in.  

It’s tough not to compare Guatemala to its neighbors, so I will try to give you my impressions without too many comparisons, but I have to say, my impression was that Guatemala is far more populated and built-up than some of its neighbors.  There’s a lot of industry and commercial undertakings along the main roads, and far fewer conservation areas and reserves when compared to, say Belize, which is something like 75% or more reserve land and waterways.

Guatemala, though, is an incredibly mountainous and beautiful country with the most volcanoes of any other Central American country clocking in at 37.  The vistas, even along the main built-up highways, are positively stunning.  

Antigua, Guatemala is a fun and popular town, and is also a Unesco World Heritage Site.  There are many spectacular ruins to visit, a result of years of severe earthquakes, and more volcano views.  There’s not as much Spanish-Colonial architecture as you would expect in such a historical place, but it’s because of the earthquakes – you won’t find too many buildings more than two or three stories here.  You will speak Spanish in Guatemala more than in any other Central American country – but don’t worry!  Guatemalans are known to speak Spanish more slowly and properly than elsewhere, so even if you only know a few words, it will be easy to understand and get around.  In fact, Antigua is known for its Spanish language classes and schools!  I certainly tried to flex my high school Spanish knowledge, and I felt like the locals appreciated it.  

I loved Antigua for the variety of shops and cosmopolitain atmosphere.  You can find just about any kind of cuisine here, as a lot of ex pats from all over the world have made their home in Antigua.  You’ll eat and drink very well in this town, and I wish we had spent another day or two here to experience more of the restaurants and bars on offer.  We had fun having a few appetizers and drinks at Bistro Cinq, a french-themed cozy restaurant with very cool decor.  The Antigua Brewing Company offered excellent craft brews as well as excellent views of Antigua and Volcan Agua from its rooftop deck. Frida’s was great for Mexican fare, and we loved grabbing a few glasses of wine and buying a handful of habanos from Tabacos y Vinos. What a great little find right under the Santa Catelina Arch.  You can also have very fancy food in Antigua.  We ate at El Refectorio at the Santo Domingo Hotel and Meson Panza Verde, both offering excellent service and absolutely delicious food.  El Refectorio was set in the ruins of the old Convent of Santo Domingo, providing an eerie and open atmosphere.  They offered more traditional Guatemalan fare here, plated expertly.  Meson Panza Verde was more cozy, set in the courtyard of the hotel of the same name full of beautiful foliage.  The food was fresh, flavorful and the service was excellent.

The souvenir shopping in Antigua is top notch. I would highly recommend checking out the Jade Museum for a short info session on Central American jade and learn how to spot the real stuff from the not-so-real.  Find more kitchy souvenirs and t-shirts at Nim Po’t.  Also, dont forget to stop at La Tienda de Dona Gavi for herbs, oils, and some surprisingly refreshing handmade sorbets.  They have a list of about 20 different flavors!  Don’t miss the market in the main square on the weekends – you can find some unique handicrafts there.  

If you do find yourself planning a trip to Guatemala, you absolutely can’t miss a stop at Lake Atitlan.  Popular with locals on weekends, the volcanic-created lake that is 340 meters deep, is surrounded by three volcanoes offering ridiculous views.  The lake is pretty clear and flat and easy to get around by boat.  Definitely hire a guide to take you to the many towns that dot the shoreline and that rise up steeply from lake level.  There are a lot of local shops including chocolatiers and coffee roasters to try, as well as brightly colored handwoven goods for purchase. I highly recommend stopping in the towns of Santiago Atitlan and San Juan La Laguna for excellent food and shopping.  Lake Atitlan is definitely a spot to chill out by the pool and simply enjoy the view for as long as you can.  Do not miss a sunset behind the volcanoes!  We literally spent four out of our five days at the pool of our villa simply staring at the gorgeous view of the lake from above.  It never got old. 

People often skip over Guatemala as far as vacation planning goes for its poor reputation regarding crime, corrupt government, and simply because it is less popular to visit for Americans than, say, Belize or Costa Rica.  But if you do visit, you will find a beautiful country brimming with culture, amazing food and amazing views.  What more could you want from a getaway that is so close to home!?